Monday, May 04, 2009
Generally, I think the writing went OK. The oral test was hard as I was being interviewed by someone I'd never met before I wasn't used to their voice. The hardest section of all was the listening - a woman was talking about a restaurant. After the test, I heard two other candidates talking about the listening part - "Did you manage to get the address for the restaurant?". "Not all of it", came the reply. Meanwhile, I was in the background with eyebrows raised thinking "what address?!!!".
Twenty or so of us took the test in Joao Pessoa. I was the only Brit/American. Several other Latin Americans were there (not fair, I thought, as Spanish is so similar to Portuguese). Some candidates were definitely European - French, Spanish and I think. With test centres all around Brazil and the world, the CELPE-Bras seems to becoming increasingly well-known and sought after. Before my oral test I chatted to one of the helpers for the test - a university student studying literature. My conversation with her went a lot better than my oral test, I felt, and she had a lot to say about university life in Brazil. She explained that for many people the CELPE-Bras is their ticket to a new life in Brazil. Some companies, professions and many university research or teaching positions will require the certificate if you are to make a living here (similar, to be fair, to all the university-entry English tests I prepare students for back in the UK). In actual fact, she was teaching 8 Congolese refugees (who did not know French - so for them, Portuguese would be a whole more alien than it was for me!) who were going to win VISAs if they passed the exam. I felt humbled - my reasons for taking the test were rather low-key in comparison. For others the stakes were much higher.
One final note - a further question to the student from Joao Pessoa. Whenever I meet anyone who isn't studying to be a lawyer, doctor, engineer, nutritionist or computer scientist at university I always have to ask them how they're managing. This is because I've come to realise that many parents and families exert pressure on their kids to do courses that lead to certain traditional, high-earning careers which often comes at the expense of art, music, history, literature or philosophy. So, when I asked the young lady studying literature how her parents reacted to her course choice, she gave me a weary sigh as if this was a topic that frequently came up. "All I say to people is that the biggest and best thinkers - the people who changed society - came from studying the arts and humanities. That's what I'm aiming for". As someone who spent an inordinate amount of time in the York university library hunched over tomes on the Politics and History floors, I couldn't agree more!
Saturday, May 02, 2009
Guest photoblogger: Nathan Rockley. A bumper final offering from Mr. Nathan. Four more photos from their time in Fortaleza, including an appearance of Smilinguido (the famuos Brazilian Christian ant painted on the walls of Gabriel's home) and also a young chap who Nathan befriended. A big thank you to Nathan for his photos. They've certainly brightened up my blog. All we need now from the ever-talented Rockleys is a contribution from Priya which, Paul assures me, is in the pipeline. In the meantime, I leave you with Nathan's top ten experiences in Brazil:
1. Meeting Gabrielle
2. Walking through the jungle (That is, the Eco-sanctuary at Pipa)
3. Sand dune buggy ride
4. Ma-Noa (The waterpark)
5. The fabulous beaches
6. All the piscinas (yes, it is fair to say, Nathan and Priya road-tested many swimming pools during their time - Ed).
7. Nature park
8. Plane flights
9. The heat
10. Crazy road train at Fortaleza. (I wasn't there for this - you'll just have to ask Nathan to explain next time you see him)
Friday, May 01, 2009
May Day round up. We're enjoying another national holiday - I think its the third in recent weeks. We had our new friends Sam and John over with their three boys. Nelson was so excited he was QUITE LITERALLY bouncing off the walls. He (Nelson) also found a stash of new undies that his granny had bought him. He changed in and out of various pairs 5 times before 10am.
Blog round up. This is the 300th published post on this blog. While the Rockleys were here we passed the 5,000 hits mark as well ( = just under 17 hits per post). Thanks to everyone who reads!
Footy round up. I wrote an article over here about Ronaldo - not Cristiano, THE Ronaldo who has scored more goals in World Cups than anyone else. He is starting to cause a stir back in Brazil as he's now playing for Corinthians.
Guest photoblogger: Nathan Rockley. Another installement from Nathan, two pictures from their trip to Fortaleza: it's the Rockleys with Priya's Compassion sponsored child - Gabriel!
The internet wasn't working here recently which is why we got behind on his series - sorry Nathan! Also, another question - this time one that Nathan asked me. The thing is, Natal hosts the biggest cashew tree in the world. It's something the local tourist board are very keen on and they've done quite a good job even since we've been here of putting in walkways, drumming up interest and creating nice publicity. Having lived here for 2 and a half years, I feel the cashew tree is something of an amusing joke. I mean, it's just a tree. It's also very wide, not very tall. It just looks like an overgrown hedge. It's the sort of thing guests are keen to see (yippee!! The world's largest cashew tree!!!) then after 3 minutes they sort of look slightly bemused (oh, right... ok, then... well, let's go to the beach). So, with this in mind, I tend to downplay the cashew tree when visitors are here. But, on our last day, I took the Rockleys to experience the wonders of the tree for themselves. A couple of hours later, having had time to ponder the merits of the foliage, Nathan had this to ask me while we were in the car:
Q: Dave, why do you say the cashew tree isn't very good? It's amazing!
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Guest photoblogger: Nathan Rockley. Two animals Nathan spotted. The first may look like loch ness monster (this photo has already been sent to specialists to see if its a hoax) but Nathan assures me its just a clay tortoise he made when he visited a farm with the other kids from the language school. The rabbit was on the farm too. Another question to Nathan:
Q: Who was the most interesting Brazilian you met?
A: Rachel.
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Guest photoblogger: Nathan Rockley. Another couple of highlights from the memory stick of Nathan Rockley, aged 8. There's the kids again and a great contribution (actually taken by Paul) to the collection of Fuscas we have on this blog.
Another question I asked Nathan.
Q: When were you most scared?
A: On the sand dune buggy ride.
Monday, April 27, 2009
Guest photoblogger: Nathan Rockley. Another nice couple of shots. A purple flower, probably from Pipa. And, the kids relaxing at home.
I also took the chance to briefly interview Nathan on his experiences in Brazil and I will post some questions and answers with his photos. Here's the first one...
Q: What was the strangest thing you ate in Brazil?
A: Beer fruit. (Also known as sapote - my son Nelson's favourite).
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Rockley 'n' Roll. Well 3 weeks came and went very quickly and the Rockleys, we trust, are all safe and well back in the UK. What a talented bunch they are though, because if this blog hasn't benefitted tremendously from the insightful commenteering of Paul, we now have the creative inputs of Priya and Nathan to look forward to. First up is Nathan, who was asked to choose the best 10 photos from his camera that sum up his time here. He chose 14 - a measure, I hope, of how much fun he had. So, two a day for the next week... Nathan Rockley, "Maps and Legends" is in your hands.
Guest photoblogger: Nathan Rockley. Above, the first two in the series of 14 photos by Nathan. A view, I believe, looking out from the fort toward Redina beach and a nice one of a smiling Gloria pushing her "hippo".
Açai. One final anecdote here. Something the guidebooks and aficionados recommend is for visitors to Brazil to try an "açai". Açai is a purple fruit from the Amazon which, along with Guarana, has many great nutritional properties including providing energy. Basically, one açai = 7 bottles of Red Bull. But, to go for "açai" is not just to go out to eat the fruit somewhere - it's to go and have it served to you in a particularly special and unusual way. The açai is liquified and cooled (sort of like a slushy) and then extra pieces of fruit and, most importantly, granola (breakfast cereal grains) are added to it and served in large bowls. Anyway, this is what we all decided to do as we took the Rockleys to the airport - one last Brazilian festivity, and something to fill them up before being served airplane fare.
The number 1 place for Açai, so several of our friends said, was a shop which I was told was "next to the main BR petrol station". When we arrived, I was rather discouraged to find that the outlet consisted of one room with a box freezer which was literally IN the petrol station. Tables and stools were crammed together outside on the pavement and forecourt of a cycle shop. 8 lanes of traffic whizzed by within 100 yards (and this was at rush hour) and the smell of cars filling up with petrol and diseal would come wafting across to us as we sat huddled around our menus. What a nightmare, I thought, and no way to enjoy an açai or anything else! By this time Gloria and Nelson were bawling and I was grinding my teeth. Someone get me out of here! However, when my bowl of açai arrived... words cannot describe. A true Brazilian delicacy. I'm just sorry I discovered it so late.
Friday, April 24, 2009
`Travel broadens the mind.´ Discuss.
That was an essay title given to me by an over-zealous prefect for some minor misdemeanor at school. I´ve no idea what inane drivel I produced to satiate his unreasonable demand for retribution. As I reflect on our time here in Brazil, I think there has been some mind-broadening through new experiences. Here´s some of the `firsts` that have happened to me in this amazing country.
1. Guest blogging.
Surprisingly more enjoyable than I expected. Not enough to make me want to persist, but worth the dabble. Thanks for reading. Both of you. And thanks too to O Gringo Maclurio for his kind permission and licence to blog.
2. Preaching to Brazilians.
I had a couple of different opportunities. Both very positive (for me at least). Another reminder to me that God uses our availability more than our ability.
3. Bodyboarding.
Exhilirating, but I needed some coaching first. I tried surfing as well. Ouch. It looks so easy on TV.
4. Watching ESPN.
This is a Brazilian channel which shows English football. I loved the passionate commentators and their uncanny ability to make saying the words `Goal´,` Rooney` and `Monshesterrr`(sic) last at least 3 minutes.
5. SKYPEing.
To Dave´s parents and some of his friends. It´s amazing to think this technology is available and doesn´t cost.
6. New fauna.
Including a basislisk lizard running upright on 2 legs right in front of me, humming birds, irridescent butterflies and frogs that go ´whoop´ instead of `ribit`.
7. New tastes.
Feijoada, acai ice cream, carne de sol, fresh papaya and caremallised cashews are some of the things that have made my tastebuds tingle.
8. The `louca loco`.
This was my name for a surreal road train ride along the seafront and surrounding streets of Fortaleza, accompanied by some Brazilian cartoon characters and Scooby Doo who kept jumping off and accosting innocent bystanders, all with a deafening kiddypop soundtrack. (Louca is Portuguese for ´mad`.)
9. Crazy stunts.
A hair-raising, white-knuckle, sand buggy ride, a 70m (that may be an exaggeration) vertical water slide and an even higher horizontal zip wire into a lake. I survived all of them. Intrepid, or what?
10. Visiting a sponsored child.
Humbling. Inspiring. Shocking. An immense privilege and very moving.
Monday, April 20, 2009
Picture quiz below. The picture from my last post below is an advert for real estate. It's talking about new holiday apartments...
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
"Seems madam? Nay ´tis! I know not seems."
So Hamlet explores a familiar Shakespearian theme – appearance and reality. It´s particularly pertinent here where ´delusive appearances have appeared with metronomic regularity throughout the social history of Brazil´(Joseph Page). One example was in the 19thC when the British (with almost breathtaking hypocrisy) were seeking to ensure their demands to end the slave trade in Brazil were met. They sent delegations to see if Brazil was complying, but since the Brazilians had no intention of doing so at that stage they created an impression that they were. Thus the phrase was coined ` para ingles ver´ (literally ´for the English to see´), which has survived to the present day.
We´ve also encountered some things that have been somewhat deceptive. A harmless looking millipede which is quite common here can give you a nasty sting. (It´s even worse in Amazonia where a touching a certain caterpillar can be fatal). My previous blog entry rejoicing in the absence of mozzies was premature – over 20 maddeningly itchy bites on my legs alone prove otherwise, though I´ve still hardly seen any of the infernal, pesky beasts. We were keen to sample some of the exotic fruits here. On our first day I bought a selection from the shop around the corner. ´Custard apple` tastes like neither custard nor apple, but is rather a collection of water melon seeds covered with bits of lychee flesh. I bought a large pack of ´Star fruit` for Rs 2 (about 70 pence in the UK) and instantly regretted it when I ate one. The children were similarly unimpressed. ``But they look so nice,`` I protested. One we sampled in church yesterday looked for all the world to be a Sharon fruit but stuck to your teeth with a bitter aftertaste.
And then there was one that looked just like a large Kiwi fruit. ``It tastes like beer,`` remarked my 8 year old son. ``How do you know what beer tastes like? I enquired. ``Grandad.`` was his laconic reply.
Monday, April 13, 2009
Linktastic. A blog post full of links isn't supposed to be that interesting, but look what we've got for you today.
Check here for videos of the Easter period - notably, Paul Rockley on a Ma Noa waterpark slide, Guga the turtle moving to a new home, Gloria with her chums Priya and Nathan and Dave running down a sand dune.
Pictures of some of our adventures are posted in this facebook album. You have to work hard at spotting the Rockleys and Nelson and Gloria in amongst the flora and fauna of Brazil. Some of these photos were taken at the Eco-Sanctuary in Pipa, a part of which we got to know only too well: namely, half way up the mud truck on the way out. That's where our car got stuck and we were left somewhat at a loss for the best part of an hour. But, I'll let Paul fill in the details of that adventure, should he choose to mention it, on one of his elabarate posts...
Also, couldn't resist posting this video. Even Brazil's less than famous footballers are still brilliant. Here's a chap called Grafite (pronounced grafitti) scoring the fifth goal for Wolfsburg against the mighty Bayern Munich in the German Bundesliga last week. It's as cheeky a goal as you'll ever see, and a prime example of the "jeitinho" Paul was talking about below.
And the last one isn't a link at all - it's the picture above. Pop Quiz: What's that poster advertising? You'd think the English translation would make it crystal clear, but...
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Today is Easter Sunday, so a very feliz pascoa to everyone and especially our family back in Blighty.
Prior to our trip some kind friends bought us the Lonely Planet guide to Brazil, which was helpful preparatory reading since I didn´t know very much about this fascinating country at all. One of the things they mention is the Brazilian way of doing things called jeitinho. Apparently it´s a difficult word to translate, but it carries the idea of a creative way around things which are seemingly difficult or intractable. A sporting example which comes to mind was a jaw-dropping piece of skill and inventiveness I saw a Brazilian footballer perform against my team (Manchester United) in the the FIFA World Club Championship in 2000. Receiving the ball with his back to the goal and a hulking defender right behind him, Edmundo somehow contrived to spin the ball one way, turn the other side of the dumbstruck defender, collect it again and smash it past the goalkeeper. I´ve never seen it repeated. Apparently Brazilians pride themselves in doing this sort of thing in all sorts of situations.
One French scholar described jeitinho as ``an ingenious manoeuvre that renders the impossible possible, the unjust just, and the illegal legal``. With it being Easter my thoughts turn naturally to what happened on that ´green hill far away´ outside Jerusalem. Here was the God of awesome holiness facing the dilemma of what to do with sinful, rebellious humanity who yet remained the objects of his love and with whom He desired relationship. What would He do? The cross is His answer. In the cross He somehow managed to satisfy the demands of His justice with the lavishness of His grace. In the cross the sinless one was ´made sin for us´. In the cross the immortal dies , God pays our debt `the just for the unjust´ Genius. Mystery. ´A deeper magic since before the dawn of time´ as C.S. Lewis puts it in his allegory The Lion , the witch and the wardrobe. I´m calling it ´Divine jeitinho.´
Saturday, April 11, 2009
One of the pleasant surprises about our trip so far is the distinct lack of mosquitoes here in Natal. Of course I´m not missing them or their irritating high-pitched whine in my ear, it´s just I was geared up to resume hostilities after our last time in a hot country. I brought all manner of repellents and was ready for the nightly ritual of checking every nook and cranny of the room to hunt down and destroy the insectoid enemy. So we´ve been able to sleep in relative peace, rather than being woken every five minutes by that tell-tale whine, jumping out of bed, turning the light on in a blind panic and carrying out another frenzied search. I remember one such night in a Maputo hostel where the drama was heightened by the fact that we were in a malaria-ridden region. It all reminds me of the Kenyan proverb; ` anyone who thinks they are too small to make a difference has never spent the night in the same room as a mosquito!´
Wednesday, April 08, 2009
Guest Blogger: Paul Rockley.
Our journey from London via Lisbon was pleasantly uneventful. The interesting thing for me was the importance of first impressions. Admittedly it was late at night (around 11:45pm) so there were presumably fewer staff around, but I´m not sure why we had to stand in a queue for an hour in immigration before we could finally retrieve our bags and be on our way. I´m British, I love queuing normally (!), but this was different and was especially tough on the children who were hot, bothered and exhausted. Effectively it was 4:00am in the morning for us, and we just wanted to collapse somewhere. I didn´t see any ´welcome to Brazil´ signs anywhere in fact the only sign I saw in English was one warning of the serious punishment for any would-be ´sex tourists´. Nobody spoke to us or smiled at us and I was somewhat taken aback by the apparent unfriendliness. I had read somewhere that Brazilians are suspicious of strangers, so maybe I´m reading too much into all this, but I couldn´t escape a feeling of not being welcome somehow.
At least we´d already seen a beaming Dave sporting his England football shirt waiting to meet us from the plane before we headed into immigration. We felt bad that he´d had to wait so long, but were so relieved to be whisked away from the airport to their apartment, where Rach had stayed up to greet us which we really appreciated. Also there were beds made up for us, a fan cooling the room down and the inviting prospect of a shower! What a contrast to what we´d felt moments earlier. And what a difference a warm welcome makes to tired travellers.
Sunday, April 05, 2009
Sand dune buggy ride is worst/most exciting yet. I took Dan on the sand dune buddy ride. Now, the lady who owns the joint knows me by name and gives me discounts. She also provides the crazyiest drivers. Dan's mountain-biking experience seemed to help him because I was flung about the dunes like a pebble in a can. Nearly came off twice.
10 smashed cars in one day. I've commented on here regularly about the propensity for bumps in Natal. It's now getting beyond a joke. We were woken at 3am the other day by a guy rolling his car (with no one else around) at the junction outside our window. This has made me jittery and I keep getting up at night when I hear tires screech or horns blare (which is every night). Then, during one day this week, I counted 10 dented cars that I saw around town - recently dented, I mean. With the owners standing around scratching their heads and waiting for the traffic cops to arrive. Worse yet, while driving my mother-in-law to the airport a couple of weeks back the traffic in front of us suddenly started skidding about and going at zig-zags. It was a day time police car chase. A bermuda-shorts wearing chap was apprehended by gun-carrying special forces.
Thursday, March 26, 2009
I've just read in Veja magazine an interview with the Bishop of Recife who announced the Catholic church's position - that the Doctors and mother, as those who approved and carried out the abortions, should be excommunicated. It is extremely revealing to me - not only on how the Catholic church functions as regards to its laws, but also how the official position is now at odds with the majority of Catholics in the country.
Here are a few pointers from his interview that I found interesting. What this case represents is very much a clash of two worldviews and the Bishop articulates this stating early on that God's law must come first and that the life of an unborn child has as much value as a grown human adult. As it happens, the Catholic church excommunicates people for nine different reasons, but rape is not included in the list. Abortion is included because it is considered to be wilful murder against an innocent. The Bishop goes onto explain some of the other 8 possible reasons for excommunication - physical harm to the Pope, apostasy and desecrating the bread and wine. In other words, excommunication can occur for (to a non-believer) seemingly trivial things while other crimes, so heinous, "appear" to go unpunished by the church.
In a small way, I have grudging respect for the Bishop. He is caught between a rock and a hard place and he is simply the mouthpiece for church law - it was not, per se, actually his own decision, rather the decision of Rome. Also, as I am a Christian who is often misunderstood by people who have no faith and as someone who has made and continues to make seemingly odd decisions based on my beliefs that there is a God and we can know what he wants us to do based on the Holy Sprit and the Bible, I relate to the Bishop and his quandary. He is, in his way, trying to do the right thing. Through the prism of Catholic law and in such a context as this inflammatory story, his words seem calaous and harsh. I can also see in a him a genuine desire to stop abortion (and rape and murder) - as he recounts several "positive" stories of mothers being talked out of potenitally reckless (and illegal) abortions by Catholic Doctors.
I guess what I'm really trying to say is that my critique would not be against him as a person. (Veja opens the article by saying that there are those who base their lives on the "Doctrine of Love" and others who live out their lives because of the "Love of Doctrine" - the Bishop being an example of the latter). Rather, I think, it would have to be against Catholic doctrine which elevates certain acts into an untouchable territory liable for excommunication. For me, this contradicts biblical teaching which suggests every sinful act is an abomination to God - be it, on the one hand, a seemingly insignificant "white lie" or, on the hand, a Joseph Fritzl-style lifetime of abhorant acts. Therefore, we all stand accused. But the Christian message is that absolutely anyone can claim forgiveness through Jesus Christ, regardless of their past transgressions. In this sense, none of us can ever be "excommunicated" - Jesus accepts all of us in spite of our position vis-a-vis any established church. My prayer is that everyone in this story - be it those in or out of the Catholic church will come to realise this.
One final note to show what this case means for Brazilian society. The editorial of the Veja issue concluded by saying how thankful it was the church was seperated from the state so that Catholic law was not punishable through state channels. Likewise, the Minister for Health roundly criticized the church's position as being impractical in real life and out of touch with modern society. And one letter from a reader caught my attention. It said: "I cannot believe the Catholic church has taken a decision out of the middle ages. Is it any wonder the protestant churches are growing in this country like a plague?"
POST-SCRIPT: I should say, that I consider myself to be very much "pro-life" in my beliefs, but that being "pro-life" includes honouring the lives of all involved including the little girl as well as the unborn children. Therefore, in this extreme case - in which a young girl is unwittingly pregnant at an age in which she lacks the maturity and even physical development to care for children, and with the health risks involved, I would say that the decision to take an abortion is at the very least understandable. The question is, if I was a Catholic clergyman - would I be able to say that? And if so, would I lose my job?
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Things I love about Brazil #42: Fuscas / VW Beetles. VW built many of their famous cars in Brazil, and I've realised many Brazilians have a love affair with the little vehicles. For many poorer people, or for students or those buying their first car, a used but reliable "Fusca" or Beetle is your best bet. And then, if you're so inclined, join a society of Fusca owners and paint your car interesting colours (see above), add stickers, oversized tyres and generally "pimp" it. That top car has a sticker on it claiming a 4x4 gearbox. Yeah, right.
GMAIL NOTE: Rach set up a Gmail account for The Mummy's Club but they've recently stopped her sending out group emails because they think it's spam! Rach is a bit grumpy about this and our attempts to contact Google haven't been too successful. Anyone had this problem?
Pictures. Slowly rotating in the sidepanel are some pictures from a recent Mummy's Club.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Things I miss about England #42: CDs on magazines. if you want new music in Natal, you download it illegally or you go the guy with the wagon on the beach and you ask him to download it illegally. Cousin Dan could well be bringing me some music mags from the UK with CDs on the front - for many years, this was my way to hear new, legal, good music. Maybe, I'm just a traditionalist, but...
Amusing uses of English. Just been marking more tests. From some tests about parts of the body and ailments... Students had to fill in gaps with the correct words and sometimes the first letter was given as a clue. Expected answers were, of course, blowing/fainted/fainted/throat.
When you have a cold you spend a long time chewing your nose.
I was on the train and lost consciousness. I failed.
I was on the train and lost consciousness. I falled over [sic].
I have a sore toe - it hurts when I laugh.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
I'm keeping busy with my classes and students - one of whom is the state's most important plastic surgeon. With a Dutch name, oriental appearance and Brazilian passport he's already an extraordinary guy, but at the age of 40 he is 5 years short of being able to retire for good. His plan for his retirement is to stay at home (he lives alone), read books and watch films. I'm not entirely sure why he is even learning English, but we're happy to teach him for the money he pays us.
Also, I've started turning the cogs on the machine that will be our move back to England. I've signed up for numerous job sites, freshened up my CV. But, and we're going to really have to trust God on this one as we believe it is Him who is asking us to return, the situation in London isn't so good. Some of the organisations I've wanted to work for have frozen their recruitment in wake of the economic crisis. I got an email today from a great little charity which do education work with children of war torn countries (right up my street!) saying that a job prospect I showed interest in has been withdrawn for the very same reason. Rach's bro and sis are there already but have struggled to get permanent work. We sure have picked a humdinger of a year to return to the UK, but we have faith something will work out. As I keep saying: "we'll build the ark, and God can make it float".
